Sunday, December 6, 2009

Italian Antipasti


Cooking in Italy and particularly cooking in rural areas is almost always based upon regionally and seasonally available fresh ingredients. The various regions within Italy all have significantly different cuisines and you can tell you are in Umbria for example by the dishes presented. There are differences between Milan, Florence, Naples, Rome, Sicily, the Marche and the Veneto as well as in all of the other specific areas that Italy is divided into. Some areas favor olive oil, others butter or a local favorite in some areas, lardo. Carbohydrates in some areas are dominated by pasta and in others by risottos or polenta. However the common theme in each region is a culinary emphasis, particularly in restaurants and in catering, on what is that region's cuisine.


I would like to share some of the recipes and dishes I have learned to prepare and show how they can fit into a post-bariatric surgery lifestyle. I will start as any Italian meal of substance will start, with the antipasti. Generally antipasti are provided prior to when the actual dinner is served, along with a glass of prosecco (sparkling wine) or a glass of red or white wine from the region. The small bites are eaten along with sips of the wine and can provide a basis for conversation in and of themselves or just accentuate the conversation going on. Dining is both a gustatory experience as well as a social one and that is how it should be. Eating alone or in silence is not very much fun. So I try to make the antipasti beautiful and tasty, sometimes to provoke conversation and sometimes just for their intrinsic value. Following posts will deal with pasta dishes, meats and vegetables and desserts.

Antipasti in the post-bariatric period are often the only dishes selected by diners at restaurants. Frankly I look at the antipasti menu as my entire meal. They are small bites, often deliciously flavored and can encompass significant amounts of protein. They can be filling and satisfying. I love making antipasti for my catering clients. They can be beautiful, tasty and a welcome addition to the pre-dinner cocktails and wine.

I will focus on several crostini as your starter choices. The basis for most of these is my quick beer bread (the recipe was presented in an earlier post). Recently I have been adding ground toasted fennel seeds to the dough for a great new taste especially with mild flavored toppings. Add some garlic and onion powder, and some grated pecorino or Parmesano-Reggiano cheese to liven it up. After baking and cooling (24 hours), slice the bread into 1/2  inch slices, sprinkle or brush a bit of olive oil on them and grill or fry them in a non-stick frying pan to crisp. They then can be used for the preparation of the crostini. I use the whole slice to make the antipasti and then cut it into serving pieces for serving. I then use some beautiful flat serving platters to show them off.

Crostini with funghi pate

To make funghi pate is quite easy. It doesn't have much protein however so it should not be the only antipasti you eat. But it is quite tasty and is a valuable asset to your antipasti arsenal.

Purchase 8 ounces of sliced mushrooms (these can be white button, porcini, chanterelles or other mushrooms). Unless you are a very experienced mushroom hunter, do not use ones you find in the garden or forest. These can cause serious and often fatal medical conditions. Use the ones from the commercial growers to be safe.

Saute the mushrooms in 3-4 ounces of butter and a bit of olive oil. Add some salt and pepper. Some chopped onion works well here as well. As the mushrooms cook down they will release a lot of water, so continue to saute until the mushrooms appear almost dry. Add a pinch of dried oregano or marjoram. Ass the mushrooms cook down add about 1/4 cup of marsala ort brandy. Watch out for the flames here. Keep the fire low and add the alcohol to the pan off the flame.

When mushrooms are done, pour into the food processor; add 1/4 pound of cold butter, and 1/2 cup of chopped parsley. Pulse to reduce the mixture to a medium puree. Place the mixture in a storage container and then into the refrigerator. To serve simply spread the mixture on the warm crostini and sprinkle with some finely chopped fresh parsley. Serve 2 pieces at least to each person.

Crostini with Umbrian chicken liver (fegatini) pate

A lot of folks don't like chicken livers (or livers of any sort). But they can make a very nice antipasti with lots of protein and a nice flavor. Try this one at least once to see how you like it.

Purchase about 8-12 ounces of fresh chicken livers (here in our local market they are normally combined with chicken hearts). In the food processor, place 3/4 cup of giardineri mix (pickled vegetable mixture of carrots, cauliflower peppers and onions) and puree until coarsely chopped. Chop an onion into coarse dice and saute with the chicken livers in a mixture of olive oil and butter until the livers are just a bit pink on the inside. Try not to overcook the livers. I think this makes then grainy and may be why some people don't like them. Put the cooked chicken livers and onions into the food processor and add a 1/4 pound of cold butter cut into chunks. Add 1/2 cup of chopped parsley. Puree until smooth but where some of the small bits of the colorful vegetables can still be seen. Place in a container, seal and place in the refrigerator to solidify. To serve, simply spread on the crostini and top with some finely chopped parsley or chives.

Crostini with cannellini bean puree and caramelized onions and garlic

Again this crostini is quite a good-looking antipasti, but it has little protein so serve it with others that are a bit higher in protein.

Purchase a large can of great Northern white beans or fagiolini beans. Drain them and rinse them in cold water under the tap to remove the liquids they are canned in. Place the beans in a saucepan, and add a can of fresh water and a couple of cloves of garlic (peeled). Bring to a boil and simmer until most of the water has evaporated. Add some salt and pepper to taste. This mixture can be made as spicy as you want it with the addition of Tabasco sauce, red peperoncini flakes, or a Creole seasoning mix. Place in a food processor and puree until smooth. Add a bit of chopped parsley for a fresh added flavor and some color. Put in a container and place in the refrigerator to solidify.

In a second pan, saute 1 or 2 finely sliced white or yellow onions in 1/4 cup of an olive oil and butter mixture and a cup of water. Bring to high heat and reduce heat to a simmer. Cook until the water has disappeared and the onions start to caramelize. Taste them to see if you need to add a bit of sugar. Continue to cook until the onions are a golden brown, Watch them as they can burn easily near the end of the cooking. When they are golden, take them off the heat and place them in a container to cool and store in the refrigerator. To serve the crostini, spread some of the bean puree on the bread, and top with some of the onions. A small dollop of spicy chutney can be added here for some extra flavor.

Crostini with fresh ricotta, dried peperoncini, salt and honey (heated)

This is an unusual crostini that I make with thinly sliced baguettes that I brush with olive oil on on side and place in the oven at 350 degrees F for 7-8 minutes to toast.

Purchase about a pound of ricotta cheese (here in Italy we have wonderful fresh ricotta) and place it in a bowl. With an electric mixer whip the cheese to a smooth consistency. Add some dried peperoncino flakes to the level you like, and some salt to taste. The mixture should be spicy but not incendiary. Add some honey to temper the heat. But don't make it a dessert; just add a bit of sweetness. Spread the cheese mixture on the crostini and place them back in the oven until they6 start to get a nice golden color on top. Take out of the oven and serve hot (carefully as these are little napalm packages) or warm.

Crostini with chopped spiced tuna and tomato

This crostini is sort of like a tuna and tomato open faced sandwich and several can make a terrific lunch. This has a good amount of protein and is quite a suitable dish for the bariatric patient.

Open and drain a 4-6 ounce can of tuna packed in olive oil. Puree in the food processor with a tablespoon of pickled capers and a bit of fresh olive oil. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper as necessary. Chop two medium tomatoes in a coarse dice, a 1/2 cup of fresh basil, some oregano (died or fresh) and 1/2 cup of parsley. Blend the tomato mixture gently so you don't break it up. Gently add the tuna mixture. Place in a bowl and refrigerate until ready to serve. This doesn't keep well so use it within a day or two of making it. The Tomato/tuna mixture can be spread on the same baguette crostini as above or on the toasted quick bread (the fennel flavored one works great with the tuna). This mixture can get a bit soggy so serve it immediately.  Add a sprinkle of chopped parsley for color.

Crostini with sausage and stracchino, Parmigiano-Reggiano and spicy chutney

I have used this sausage mixture in stuffed peppers as well as on crostini and it is terrific either way. It is high in protein and smooth enough to be easily digestible. I make the crostini up on the grill pan with a bit of olive oil brushed on the bread prior to grilling. Toast them well, and then remove to a rack. As they cool on a rack I spread a small amount of a nice chutney on the bread. The chutney soaks into the bread a bit and flavors the whole piece. Commercial chutney is quite good, but it is easy to make your own and you can season the chutney as spicy as you wish. Try making something like green tomato chutney, or fig with onions, or apple plum chutney. Making chutney can be a lot of fun and will provide you with a custom-made condiment that is quite different from the commercial brands. Check the internet for thousands of recipes.

Purchase about 3/4 to 1 pound of Italian sausage, either in bulk or in links. If in links, remove the casings and saute in a medium skillet until no longer pink. Place the sausage in the food processor with 8-12 ounces of a soft cream cheese (or strachinno cheese in Italy), and a 1/4 cup of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Pulse to break up the sausage but do not puree too finely. You want to keep some of the small chunks of sausage intact. This mixture can be made spicier by adding Tabasco sauce or dried pepper flakes. Season to your tastes. The mixture can be stored in the refrigerator for a week or so. To serve, spread it on the chutney topped crostini, and add a small dollop of chutney to the top. Sprinkle a little parsley on the top. Works either cold, or you can heat the sausage mixture and serve it warm.

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