Condiments that add excitement

Interesting condiments can take sometimes bland and possibly unappetizing foods and turn them into truly delicious dishes. The trick here is to understand the combinations of flavors that go with a dish and then accent one or more of those flavors. It can be a simple reduction of the juices left over after roasting a chicken. Just add a bit of water, scrape up the brown bits in the bottom of the roaster and let the liquid evaporate over medium heat until it is thick and rich. Taste it before adding any seasonings. Salt and other flavors will concentrate in the reduction so season just before serving.

Here in Italy we use these types of condiments all the time in antipasti, served on cheese slices, or with hot or cold meats. Their unique characteristics make them a worthy part of the bariatric diet and when left in the refrigerator can be quickly used to enhance any dish. Use the fruits and vegetables that are in season and make these up for long term storage. They are easy to water process can and keep for extended periods. If you have some apples, make an apple mostarda; likewise with pears, figs or peppers. Have fun learning to can your own condiments and enjoy them all the time.

For the bariatric patient, condiments should be used lightly as they tend to be fairly high in calories, but when used sparingly can truly enhance the flavor of the dish. Of particular interest to the bariatric cook is the development of flavors that are slightly acidic (made with vinegars) or a combination of sweet and sour flavors. I have includes several recipes condiments that I have made here in Italy and have stored down in the pantry for ready use or to be given away as house gifts.marinades.

Making chutneys, marmalattas, and mostarda here in Italy is a lot of fun and takes advantage of the fall and summer largesse of fruits and vegetables. They provide wonderful additional flavors and depths to the basic recipes. I have used chutneys and marmalattas to make up a plate of sliced cheese pieces and either top the pieces with one of the condiments or pass a small bowl with a demitasse spoon to serve yourself. Mostarda is a uniquely northern Italian dish that combines the sweetness of fruits and syrups with the taste of vinegars and toasted mustard seeds. Use them on the smoked salmon antipasti as well as on a wide variety of other antipasti. It gives them a slightly different taste and I usually get the same comment from those people consuming the item. “What is it??”

I have included several recipes for mostarda and marmalattas and conserves, and if you have a favorite recipe for chutney, make it up and try it with cheeses. A few chutney recipes will follow in another posting. I came up with the recipes for mostarda while experimenting with different tastes and fruits and I have use apples, pears, and various citrus fruits as well as dried fruits. You can make them is smaller amounts and put them in the pantry. When you need one for a party, take it out and use it, then refrigerate.

Mostarda can be made with just the mustard seeds and the sugar syrup, but I prefer to add some vinegar to make the preserves sweet and sour.

Apple or Pear mostarda

Ingredients
Three cups of water
2 cups of sugar
Four Granny Smith apples, grated or the same amount of grated firm pears
Three tablespoons of yellow mustard seeds
3-4 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar (optional)

Directions
Bring water and sugar to a rolling boil and boil for 10 minutes.
Add grated apples and return to a boil.
Toast mustard seeds in a dry frying pan until they start to pop.
Grind in a mortar or spice mill to a coarse texture.
Add to apples and sugar.
Taste and add 3-4 tablespoons vinegar. (This is my preferred option)
Simmer for 30 minutes.
Set aside overnight to steep.
Bottle in sterilized jars, seal and process for 5 minutes in boiling water.
Remove from the water bath to a rack.
Allow to cool.

Lemon or citrus mostarda

I like this one made with tangerine or lemon rind. Makes a great condiment for crostini with cream cheese and smoked salmon.

Ingredients
2 cups of sugar
2 cups of water
2 tablespoons of yellow or black mustard seeds
1 Tablespoon of powdered mustard (Coleman’s)
1 cup of citrus peels (tangerine, lemon, orange or mixture)
All the juice from the peeled fruits
3-4 Tablespoons of white wine vinegar (more to taste)

Directions
Mix water and sugar together and bring to a boil.
Boil for 10 minutes, and then add the citrus peels and juice.
Add the powdered mustard.
Continue boiling the sugar mixture until it thickens, and the bubbles are small.
Toast the mustard seeds in a small frying pan until they start to pop.
Transfer the seeds to a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder.
Grind to a coarse grind and add to fruit mixture.
Bring to a boil and cook for 20 minutes.
Transfer to clean canning jars (1/2 pint or less).
Cap and process in boiling water bath for 10 minutes.
Transfer to rack and allow to cool.

Pear and Ginger mostarda

This can be made with just the mustard seeds and the sugar syrup, but I prefer to add some vinegar to make the preserves sweet and sour. Mustard seeds can be increased according to taste.

Ingredients
Two cups of water
2 cups of sugar
Four firm pears, peeled and grated
3 Tablespoons grated ginger
Three tablespoons of yellow mustard seeds
3-4 tablespoons of white wine vinegar (optional)

Directions
Bring water and sugar to a rolling boil and boil for 10 minutes.
Add grated pears and return to a boil.
Add ginger.
Toast mustard seeds in a dry frying pan until they start to pop.
Grind in a mortar or spice mill to a coarse texture.
Add to pears and sugar.
Taste and add 3-4 tablespoons vinegar. (This is my preferred option)
Simmer for 30 minutes.
Bottle in sterilized jars, seal and process for 5 minutes in boiling water.
Remove from the water bath to a rack.
Allow to cool.

Dried Apricot and Onion Conserve

Ingredients
1 pound of dried apricots, chopped into medium dice
Rind of ½ lemon and the juice from the whole lemon
2 onions chopped in medium dice
2 cups of water
1 cup sugar
Vinegar
Salt
1 onion, chopped

Directions
Boil water and sugar together to dissolve.
Add the lemon rind and juice.
When boiling, add apricots and return to a boil.
Simmer mixture for 30 minutes.
Add 3-4 Tablespoons of vinegar.
Add a pinch of salt.
Add the chopped onion and continue cooking for another 30 minutes.
Mixture will thicken as the apricots hydrate.
Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly.
Puree the mixture with an immersion blender to a coarse consistency.
Return to boil.
Taste and correct seasonings (add vinegar, sugar).
Fill ½ pint bottles and lid.
Process in boiling water for 5-6 minutes.

Can be made with fresh apricots.
Use 3-4 cups fresh with the stones removed.
Simmer for 30 minutes to cook the apricots. They will start to fall apart.

Fig marmalata

Ingredients
1 dozen large ripe Mission or green figs
I onion, chopped (more if desired)
3 cloves of garlic, chopped
Sugar (to taste)
Red pepper flakes (to taste)
Apple cider or wine vinegar (to taste)

Directions
Make the fig puree:
Place a dozen large figs cut into quarters in a large saucepan.
Add a chopped onion and 3 cloves of garlic
Add water to cover and cool over medium heart for approximately 1 hour until figs are very soft.
The mixture should be reduced by about ½.
Place the fruits in a food processor or using a stick blender, puree till smooth.
Put back over low heat and continue to cook to thicken the puree.
Stir at frequent intervals.
Check for seasonings and add salt and pepper.
I found a couple of tablespoons of vinegar made a great difference in sharpening the flavors.
Add 2-3 tablespoons of sugar if you want it sweeter and to balance the vinegar.
Pack in ½ pint clean jars and refrigerate or water process for 10 minutes to can for longer term storage.
Keeps about three weeks fresh or they can be stored for longer periods if canned.

Pepper marmalatta

Ingredients and directions
1 yellow bell pepper, remove the stem, seeds and interior ribs and slice lengthwise into thin slices.
1 red bell pepper, remove the stem, seeds and interior ribs and slice lengthwise into thin slices.
2 large onions, peeled, cut into half and sliced into thin slices (should be approximately 2 cup).
3 cloves of fresh garlic, peeled and sliced thinly.
Place vegetables in a deep saute pan and add ¼ cup olive oil.
Add ½ teaspoon salt.
Add ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes (this can vary with your tolerance for the heat)
On medium heat, saute for approximately 20 minutes, stirring frequently.
Add 2 cups of water and return to a simmer.
Add ¾ cup of vinegar (wine vinegar, apple cider vinegar, or rice wine vinegar, not Balsamic).
Add 3/4 cup of sugar to the vegetables and continue to simmer.
Taste the mixture to determine the balance between the vinegar and the sugar.
Add either as appropriate.
Continue to cook the vegetables down until they are quite thick.
Taste and adjust seasonings (it should be a balanced sweet and sour and not overpowered by either).
Allow to cool and place in a storage container in the refrigerator or can be water processed for 10 minutes for long term storage.
Can keep in the refrigerator for several weeks